Paris is one of the those unique cities which normal adjectives just seem to fail. You have the complete package of amazingly beautiful architecture, history, cuisine, a little grit, art, friends, and enough “je ne sais quoi” to last a lifetime. Most of all Marla and I have wonderful memories of over 25+ visits over the years. Casting our normal risk-aversion aside we made the post COVID plunge and traveled to France for a three week adventure, visiting Paris at the front and the end of the trip along with Cassis, Bandol, and Antibes. The image above is Marla and I dining at Vagenende on the Boulevard Saint-Germain at the unfashionably early time of…5:45. When you are jet-lagged you adapt. Let me tell you, everyone we encountered on this trip welcomed us with open arms, very happy to see tourists again!

We were famished so we began our French culinary adventure with foie gras and some gorgeous Burgundy snails. Marla had duck and I loved a veal dish.

Of course we had to have profiteroles for dessert!

The Vagenende 1904 interior is a beautiful example of Belle Epoque style.

Please join me for a little walking tour of Paris sights and experiences. I love wandering around on our first morning arrival as we wake up so early! The 6th arrondissement has been our “hood” for many years. We spent time exploring the 5th arr. as well on this trip.

As we started to cross the “Pont Neuf Bridge” (Paris’s oldest standing bridge across the Seine) we were caught in a huge rainstorm. Our one umbrella was not enough as we were getting soaked.

We popped into the fabulous Le Samaritaine department store which just reopened after a 7 year renovation. A customer service person saw how soaked Marla’s hair was and immediately escorted us to their beauty department. A staff person spent over 30 minutes drying and styling her hair with a Dyson hair dryer. LVMH really knows luxury and the Samaritaine is a showplace.

We loved all the beautiful refurbished metal work and the Art Nouveau decor of the Samaritaine.

Our friend Philippe Auzas joined us for dinner at Monteverdi. Their pianist was fabulous and really enhanced the evening!

Activity on Rue Guisarde in the 6th was bustling for the masked and the unmasked.

Plaques of remembrance honor those who gave their lives during the World War II resistance in Paris.

The majestic fountain in Place Saint Michel.

This is one of Paris’ famous “secrets.” “After World War II, the Paris municipal council wanted to erect a monument to Guillaume Apollinaire, the French poet who was also Picasso’s friend. Picasso was insistent that he create the small monument any way that he desired. As the more conservative people on the Council didn’t particularly care for his art, they insisted having final approval over the design. Picasso would not do it conditionally. Negotiations went back and forth. Years went by and they put up another large monument in the Square Laurent Prache across from the St. Germain des Pres Church where the Apollinaire monument was originally going to be placed. Finally, after several more years, they agreed to let him do it his way. By this time, Picasso was so disgusted by the whole affair that he gave them a sculpture of the head of Dora Maar, one of his lovers, that he had made in 1941 to be used as the monument. It was unveiled in 1959 in the little park next to the church on the corner of rue de l’Abbaye and rue Bonaparte with no recognition to Picasso on the sculpture.“

I love this little fountain near the church.

A wall of the church of the Saint Germain des Pres with a bust of the Benedictine monk and scholar Jean Mabillon.

Cafe de Flore on the Boulevard Saint Germain is still bustling! Opened in 1880, Cafe de Flore and Les Deaux Magots were famous haunts of writers and artists, especially in the 1920’s.

Laperouse is a legendary restaurant first established in 1766. It sits regally on 51 Quai des Grands Augustins in 6th arrondissement.

Cour du Commerce Saint–André in the 6 arrondissement is a curious little passageway dating from 1776. I love these passageways in Paris.

“Hmmm,…choices and choices” at Bistro d’Henri near our first Paris hotel, The Madison.

While walking on the Rue des Ecoles in the 5th arrondissement Latin Quarter we spied this Ronsard sculpture. He was a 16th century poet.

The 19th century observatory at the Sorbonne University.

Wall art across from our second Paris hotel, residence Henri IV in the Latin quarter.

After touring the Louvre ( A future blog post) we witnessed a demonstration next to our restaurant at lunch.

Marla walks rather stylishly to meet our daughter Lisa and her family for dinner.

We had to get in line to get into “L’Entrecote” on Rue Saint-Benoit. We were having dinner to celebrate Paxton’s 20th birthday! It was jammed!

Paxton and Logan at the enchanting Place Dauphine. Their dad found a truly sensational 2 bedroom apartment rental on VRBO. I will do a future post on our two Paris hotel choices this year along with Lisa & Ray’s amazing rental. Stay tuned!

We had another wonderful dinner at Restaurant Paul on Place Dauphin. We laughed as we reminisced on the past three weeks. We were together in Bandol and Antibes and connected for dinners on our final two nights in Paris. Look for a future post on beautiful Bandol, Antibes, and an amazing private tour of the Louvre.

Marla strolls with the Boys in front of the church of the Saint Germain des Pres on our last night together in Paris.

Paxton is a dual major of history and political science at Boston College and wanted to have a photo taken in front of Diderot. Denis Diderot was a French philosopher, art critic, and writer, best known for serving as co-founder, chief editor, and contributor to the Encyclopédie.

Marla and I are still in the fog of jet lag and trying to adjust to the reality of being home again. We are very grateful to be on this journey of discovery together and to be with our oldest daughter and her family in France was a fabulous bonus!

Photos: Dick Gentry. iPhone 12 Pro. Not to be used without permission.