While in Cap d’Antibes this past July one of the places I wanted to visit “La Garoupe”, a beach area where Americans’ Gerald and Sara Murphy created summer sunbathing with a party atmosphere and their artistic friends came to soak up the rays in the 1920’s. I read stories of the couple having fun on this stretch of sand and I wanted to see what it was like. Yes, it has changed and I must say not always for the better.

I made a reservation for two chairs and umbrella with lunch at Plage Joseph as neighboring Keller was booked. Our daughter Lisa said, “Dad, are you sure?” She didn’t like this end of the bay at all but I was set on experiencing the artistic life of the 1920’s at least in my brain. Marla really wasn’t keen about it either but she joined my crazy quest. Lisa’s family went up the beach at the more sensible Pavillon Beach and their pontoon.

Well, if you like being packed together like happy sardines you might find this area amusing. I did not. My apologies to Marla! I confess to being a little obsessed with a world of the past which has little relevancy to today. The swim area is sadly small, the water quality a little cloudy, and a somewhat peculiar odor as well. Just not my cup of tea though plenty of sun worshippers love it! It has its glittering devotees of course. I spied Rolls Royce SUV’s and a Bentley SUV’s in the valet parking area. Give me the beach clubs of Cannes, Menton, or Bandol any day!

She is a trooper for sure!

Yachts take the tender ashore for lunch at Plage Keller or Le Cesar. The red one above was very dramatic!

This is a wonderful Smithsonian Magazine video of Gerald and Sara Murphy and how they and their friends helped transform Cap d’Antibes in the 1920’s.

The iconic Antibes Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc closed in the summer season, but the Murphy’s convinced them to stay open. The Murphy’s and their friends often spent sunny days on La Garoupe beach. They had picnics, swam in the sea, and often dressed up with funny hats and costumes. Sara was known to wear a giant strand of pearls to the beach. Summer became the thing in this part of France. Cole Porter, Pablo Picasso, Ernest Hemingway, Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, Leger, Man Ray, Stravinsky, Cocteau, and many other artists and literati found the Murphy’s magnetically appealing.

The Murphy’s met many of their new artistic friends through Ballet Russe after their arrival in Paris in 1921. They worked as unpaid apprentices and helped repaint ballet scenery.

It was said of the Murphy’s in the 1920’s…“In some ways, they were in the right place at the right time. In other ways, they created the right time and place.”

Gerald Murphy is actually known as a forgotten master of modernistic painting. He only painted between 1922 and 1929 producing 14 works. He left painting behind when he took over his father’s company, Mark Cross. Only 8 paintings survive today. The 6′ X 6′ painting above, “Watch 1925” is part of the Dallas Museum of Art’s collection .

Murphy paintings being set up for “The Cult of The Machine” exhibition at the De Young Museum in San Francisco in 2018.

Ernest Hemingway having fun with the Murphy’s in Anitibes.

If you are fascinated in the Murphy’s and their famous friends please read the link: “Living Well is the Best Revenge” by Calvin Tomkins, New Yorker Magazine, 1962.

Beach party time in the 1920’s at La Garoupe.

Adjacent to Plage Joseph is the beautiful “le Sentier du Littoral” coastal path.

Marla and Lisa looking very beautiful.

The path was actually not crowded at all. I imagine most people were either at the beach or up in the old town.

So much fun with this crew!

Marla watches dive action offshore.

If you love Champagne, the azure sea, and stunning sunsets then the Champagne Lounge terrace at the Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc is the place to be.

With my beautiful girl! Love you so much!

Lisa and Ray LOVE caviar and Champagne!

The hotel has a stunning swimming pool.

Anyone for an afternoon swim?

I love this image of Marla!

Returning to the hotel brought back wonderful memories of a special lunch long ago with our friends Kathy and Philippe Auzas.

A nice video on Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc.

While walking near the Marche Provencal we heard beating drums….and exotic dancing girls.

It definitely caught my attention!

We connected with Lisa’s family for lunch near the harbor.

“Wait,…the dancer’s are back!” We heard they were from a nightclub in nearby Juan-les-Pins. They were advertising a soccer match.

Lisa and Ray loved the Champagne Lounge so much they returned with their boys.

Our last night in beautiful Cap d’Antibes. Our time with Lisa, Ray, Paxton and Logan in Bandol and in Antibes was a treasure we’ll never forget. Back to Paris in the morning for two nights before returning to the U.S..

I’ll post a future blog on Paris hotel ideas and also on seeing the Louvre in a new light.

Photos: Dick Gentry. Old photos from the Beinecke rare book and manuscript library. Dallas Art Museum.