“A YEAR IN PROVENCE”…NO, BUT A GLORIOUS WEEK!

My cycling trip to Provence with Backroads last September was an experience of profound beauty and discovery. I had visited parts of Provence in the past but this was my first immersion in the amazing Luberon and Aix en-Provence to the south. I was captivated by the ancient villages seemingly lost in time, the scents of the fields, and scenery to take your breath away. The image above is the medieval hilltop village of Saignon.

” When the Good Lord begins to doubt the world, he remembers that he created Provence.” Frederic Mistral

Saignon’s town square and fountain look like something from a movie set.

A few of us stopped for a coffee at a tiny cafe in the square. You can quickly tell how the residents take loving care of their village.

Riding up to the village of Menerbes brought many surprises. Bestselling author, Peter Mayle, spent three decades in Provence and called Menerbes his home. Mayle wrote “A Good Year” in 2004 and Ridley Scott directed the movie starring Russell Crowe and Marion Cotillard in 2006. Rotten Tomatoes bashed it, but after Marla and I watched it this week we actually thought it was great fun, especially the beautiful scenes in Provence!

As a lover of photography I found Menerbes to be a visual delight!

Walking around the ancient cobbled streets you may find yourself thinking…”I could definitely live here!” The above image could be from the the 1920’s, 1950’s,…but actually last September!

I stopped to admire a verdant landscape, luxuriant with vineyards, lavender, and beautiful trees. We missed the main Lavender blooming season of Late June to mid-August.

As I headed up the hill to Roussillon, I could see why it is called an “ochre village.” It is next to one of largest ochre deposits in the world.

The buildings in Roussillon are resplendent in rich yellows, oranges, and reds. Many call it the most beautiful village in France. I would say it definitely makes the top ten list!

The door is painted with a classically inspired mural.

Though it was mid-September there were still plenty of tourists enjoying the town. This group is heading up the hill from town to a lookout. The views of ochre cliffs are simply stunning!

The gorgeous village of Gordes is built on the foothills of the Monts de Vaucluse, facing the Luberon. It is one of the most well-known hilltop villages in the region, and one of the most beautiful in France.

The residents of Gordes, called Gordians, have a rebellious history dating from Medieval times through World War II when they supported resistance fighters. The village was a hothouse of resistance against the Nazis and the ruling French Vichy government.

After the war, the village was settled by artists, notably Marc Chagall. His friend, Pablo Picasso, said of him, “When Matisse dies, Chagall will be the only painter left who understands what color is”.

After touring around Gordes, we road down a steep and windy road to the beautiful village of Lourmarin. I left my bike with one of our guides and walked up the hill to the Chateau de Lourmarin which was built on the remnants of a 12th century fortress in the 15th and 16th centuries.

A pond at the chateau.

Lourmarin was bustling with locals and tourists alike as it was the Friday market day. The stalls were selling all the many delights of Provence such as olives, spices, wines, produce, flowers, etc.

After exploring the beautiful village, our cycling group met for lunch.

It is easy to see why so many people are just simply in love with Provence and its many beautiful villages!

Our last day of riding was a bit cold and windy. I’m heading toward the little village of Puyloubier with mountains of Mont Sainte-Victoire in the background.

Paul Cezanne was somewhat obsessed with Mont Sainte-Victoire and completed 36 oil paintings and 45 watercolors on the subject. This was painted in 1887 and is in the Courtauld Gallery in London.

We all met for lunch at the Place de la Republique in Puyloubier. Note the wines being cooled in the fountain.

The cycling tour included two nights in beautiful Aix-en-Provence. The cathedral is built on the site of the 1st-century Roman forum of Aix. Built and re-built from the 12th until the 19th century, it includes Romanesque, Gothic and Neo-Gothic elements as well as Roman columns. The church is listed as a French National Monument.

You just have to love the style of this dad!

We had a private tour of the town.

The famous belfry of Aix-en-Provence, or the “Tour de l’Horloge.” Dating back to 1510 it is built on the original site of a Roman checkpoint and has kept the ancient foundation at the base.

I love this dramatic door.

The square was crowded with people enjoying the afternoon.

What is wonderful about traveling in France are the many plaques providing information. Our guide pointed out a small plaque on the right showing who once owned the building and the date. It reads “Hotel Maynier D’Oppede. Facade Baroque. 1757.” Today it is a government office.

I dined with a couple on our trip from Aspen at the wonderful L’Incontournable restaurant on a square by Rue Montigny.

The restaurant cooled Champagne and Rose in the nearby fountain.

I hope you enjoyed my tour in Provence. I can’t tell you how much I miss this special area and of course the fantastic Rose wines! Yes, especially the Rose!

Photos: Dick Gentry. Not to be used without permission.

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