Traveling in winter is a great change of pace, especially if the city is amazing Venice!  Years ago Marla and I decided to visit Venice in January before the Heimtextil fabric trade fair in Frankfurt. Roberto, one of our suppliers, insisted we stay at the Hotel Danieli which was his favorite. The winter rate even then was quite high but we decided to try it. We arrived on a gorgeous classic Venetian motor launches. Even though it was in the middle of winter there were still a handful of intrepid travelers. The iconic 17 century, “The Bridge of Sighs”, is pictured above. Click on the link for a fascinating history of this famous bridge.

The Hotel Danieli’s lobby is a grand luxe interior originally built at the end of 14th century by one of Dandolo families, a noble Venetian family.

 The hotel interior is in the Venetian Gothic style typical of palazzos of this era.

Marla walks toward the “Columns of San Marco and San Todaro” which were erected in 1180 in the Piazetta San Marco.  The winter colors are reminiscent of an early atmospheric painting.

This is the beautiful “Doges Palace” (Palazzo Ducale) , one of the most famous landmarks in Venice.

 St. Marks Basilica  is the most famous church in Venice and is a great example of Italo-Byzantine  architecture.

St Marks Square, known in Venice simply as “La Piazza”, is jammed with tourists in the summer months. In season there are numerous outdoor cafes for the see and be seen crowd. During rainstorms the square is often flooded.

Venice is composed of a series of “islands” all connected by 400 bridges with gondolas moored next to piers. One evening our concierge made a dinner reservation for us and provided a map for directions. We bundled up from the cold and rain and headed out to find the address. We crossed a number of tiny bridges and after many left and right turns we found our destination. It was a very dark night and the lanes were lit with only a tiny streetlight. We were the only patrons that evening and the tuxedoed waiters treated us to a fabulous dinner experience! The walk back to the hotel was quite mysterious as we were the only ones out,…but it was very romantic!

This photo looks like a painting.

We talked to the Hotel Danieli’s concierge about going to the island of Murano.  He said, “No problem. I’ll have a boat take you there and you’ll see glass being blown at a factory.” My antenna should  have picked up signals about this becoming an expensive adventure!”

After watching the touristy glassblowing demonstration we entered the factory showrooms to look at glassware. The place was a labyrinth of interconnecting galleries featuring an endless plethora of glass products of every description! A salesperson followed us as we looked at the mesmerizing displays. In one room I found a wineglass I thought was fantastic. The salesman said, “Ah,….I can tell you have magnificent taste.” As there were no prices I asked “how much?” The price was $1200 dollars,…for a SINGLE STEM! I whispered in Marla’s ear,…”We have to get out of here!” We went out to the street with the salesperson in tow. He even said we should go to his house and his wife would fix lunch! We politely declined. Staying at the Hotel Danieli has its benefit,…as well as misconceptions about who it’s customers may be!

We passed a small glass boutique which looked dark, but we could tell there was someone inside wearing an overcoat. it was the owner of the boutique. During this era it was not uncommon for businesses to keep some of their rooms dark and unheated to save expensive energy costs. Sometimes one’s instincts can come in handy! The store featured beautiful seconds and items not in production. We purchased this Champagne glass for under $20! We decided we would collect individual wine and Champagne glasses from that point on. Each one has a great memory.

We totally fell in love with this wine glass purchased at a small shop on a little alleyway near the hotel. The color had me completely hooked. I’ve been crazy about glass in all shapes, colors, and forms ever since I began digging for antique bottles in the California’s “Mother Lode” while in college. I was a “poor man’s archaeologist.” 

Sepia toned photos of fabulous Venice in winter.

Venetian night market.

Our Venetian glass obsession has expanded over the years. We found great Venetian stemware antiquing in the U.S. as well.

 The glass on the right is my very favorite and is made millefiori technique. Click on the link to see how it is made. We found it a  weekend market in Villefranche sur Mer near Nice.

I found these Murano glasses  with millefiori elements at a trade show in the U.S.

 IMAGE CREDITS: Dick Gentry. Not to be used without permission.