First established in the Yuan dynasty (1279–1368), Beijing’s old traditional courtyards and densely populated narrow winding streets known as ‘Hutongs” survived until 1949 when modernization became China’s goal. Many homes, passed from generation to generation, then disappeared, replaced by wide boulevards and high rises. When China was preparing for the 2008 Olympics over 800 were destroyed for the games. The destruction of communities has forced many residents to the outskirts when displaced. There has been a movement to preserve and restore what remains. Almost 90% of Beijing’s 22 million population live in apartments. On a past trip to China, we made it a quest to experience these old “Hutongs” as many are still in danger of redevelopment. It was a fascinating adventure.

We hired a private guide for an inside look in a few “Hutongs”. The name comes from the Mongolian word “hottog“, meaning water well. The streets were constructed in confusing ways often crisscrossing one another.

Many homes in the back lanes have beautiful bird cages.

We met the owner of this traditional home and her friends.

A peaceful moment.

Marla and I loved watching life in the “hutong.” People are busy going about business, shopping, or just chatting with old friends.

An impromptu game of badminton in front of the entrance of a “hutong.”

A barber sets up shop in a courtyard.

Tables are set up in a courtyard compound for serious games of mahjong.

Rickshaws are used by locals and tourists alike in the areas tiny lanes.

Most of Beijing’s “hutongs” have names.

An observer of the street.

“Hutong” entrance.

Small homes in the courtyard.

A pet shop on wheels.

A very tiny lane.

A rickshaw ride.

A lively card game in the courtyard.

Old friends.

A bike shop in the “hutongs.” This is the smallest bike shop I’ve ever seen!

Entrance to a courtyard.

A typical store on a “hutong” lane.

This game of Xiangqi Chinese Chess really drew a crowd.

This cat doesn’t appear to be a lover of leeks.

I hope you enjoyed our meanderings on the lanes of Beijing.

Photos: Dick Gentry. Not to be used without permission.