In February Myanmar’s democratically elected government was deposed by the military in a coup d’etat. State counselor and former leader, Aung San Suu Kyi, was detained on dubious charges and house arrest. Though highly criticized worldwide for her actions against the countries Rohingya Muslin ethnic minority she is revered by the bulk of Myanmar’s population.
Protests have escalated almost daily and over 50 people have been killed. Myanmar, also known as Burma from Colonial days, holds a special place in our heart as we first visited in 1997. The country was ruled by military, or Tatmadaw, and tightly controlled. I’ll take you on a visual journey as we explore this amazing land. We arranged a private Myanmar tour with Bangkok based Diethelm Travel. We used them for private tours in Cambodia and Laos over the years as well.
We were fortunate to experience a large “Shinbyu” or novitiate ceremony at the incredible Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon. Young novitiates-to be are carried on the backs of family members or on small thrones.
A novitiate-to be is carried on a throne with the glimmering pagoda in the distance.
The young boys are dressed to represent “Rahula”, the son of Buddha (Siddhartha Gautama), and the first novice monk. Our guide told me it was permissible to take photos and I used a little sign language for acceptance. There were absolutely no foreign tourists in the whole complex and I felt I was chronicling something of importance like a photo journalist.
We had a feeling some of these boys were related to members of the military junta.
Becoming a novitiate monk is incredibly important for a family in Myanmar.
The reality and the importance of the ceremony is sinking in. A village might only be able to send novitiates every few years due to the expense of traveling. There is a wide range of age from this village.
Family members arrive in the temple grounds carrying “hsun ok”, or offering containers, as well as blankets to sit on the hot stone floors.
Guests of the child arriving on the palanquin in the shade during the ceremony. The heat and humidity were very high!
Marla observes the festivities.
The “longyi” is a traditional Burmese wrap-around skirt for women and men. No shoes are allowed on the temple grounds.
Numerous small rooms contain beautiful Buddha statues.
The majestic Shwedagon Pagoda towers in the distance. The temple complex remains one of my very favorite places I have ever visited.
We stayed at the Governor’s Residence in Yangon which is now a Belmond hotel.
We took a day trip to the then sleepy town of Bago. The towering Shwemawdaw Pagoda rises in the distance.
A young girl sells slices of watermelon in Bago. I was very fortunate to capture Bago life. It has obviously modernized today.
A young apprentice gathers alms with a monk. Notice the absence of cars.
Rural villagers were arriving in Bago for a temple festival. Families escape the sun by resting under their ox carts or temporary shelters that they make. Thailand is often referred to as the “land of smiles” but we found the people we encountered in Myanmar gave us big smiles everywhere we went.
The amazing Shwethalyaung Reclining Buddha in Bago is one of the largest in the world.
Marla is the only foreigner in the Bago market and the…only one wearing glasses! Our height and the glasses made us a sight few had ever seen. Children followed Marla everywhere.
A monk lost in thought with his alms bowl.
The meat vendor in the market.
We stopped at a dealer for Thanaka cream. He applied some on Marla. Thanaka is very common in Myanmar and used by women and some men, and often applied artistically on the cheeks. Apart from cosmetic beauty, Thanaka also gives a cooling sensation and provides protection from sunburn.
Marla is fitting in with the culture quite nicely.
Thanaka on the cheeks of smiling women and boys in the market.
A circus is setting up in Bago.
Elephants always cause a commotion!
Young children with cheeks plastered with distinctive thanaka cream at a playground.
A young monk collects alms in the hot sun.
Our guide took us to a nearby monastery where we met a very nice monk.
We asked our guide to take us to a nearby village to see some hand-weavers. The woman is spinning yarn on spools prior to weaving.
This hand-weaver is working a complicated fabric pattern on an ancient teak framed loom.
Traveling in Southeast Asia can be very exhausting with the heat and high humidity. The hotel’s pool was a welcome sight!
Our visit to Myanmar may have been many years ago but many of the images seem like yesterday. We were very fortunate to have had the access and the freedom of a private tour. The people of Myanmar are wonderful and I wish them safety and a swift road back to democracy. We must keep a spotlight on the situation until we see an easing of the military rule.
Photos: Dick Gentry (except first two photos from the New York Times). Not to be used without permission.
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