Our August visit to Paris was always going to be very short and losing a day with airline connections sure didn’t help! Our goals were pretty simple: connect with our grandson Paxton who was finishing up a month of study in the city, visit a good friend who suffered a terrible stroke, celebrate dinner for our wedding anniversary, and if time permitted…a little exploration. Paris is a difficult place to easily define. It doesn’t matter if it is your first trip or your 35th+ (in my case)…the city puts a beautiful spell on you. Many of the arrondissements may blend together but each has that unique “Je ne sais quoi”. I love taking it slow and meandering on streets both glitteringly fashionable and some with a gritty but fascinating patina. The last few years we’ve stayed at the Hotel Madison but this time chose their charming sister establishment, the Hotel de Buci, in my favorite “village” of the 6th.
We booked the classically styled “Madame de Pompadour” suite, compact but efficient. The iced welcoming bottle of Champagne was nice bonus!
The Rue de Buci was bustling with locals and tourists alike.
We wanted to have breakfast near the hotel, so we popped into “Jade Coffee”, a spot recommended by our daughter who was there the week before. My breakfast companion had a certain star quality!
Even at breakfast this spot was people watching supreme!
Our friend Philippe sent a car to pick us up to visit his wife who suffered a stroke. We adore Kathy. We visited her in July of last year and we are so happy to see the progress she is making!
When an accident made it impossible for our friends to meet us, we changed the original venue for our anniversary dinner to Brasserie Vagenende on the Boulevard Saint-Germain. We were still jet lagged so we chose a place with an early opening. We found Paxton already settled in with a nice Kir Royale.
Paxton spent the last month studying in Paris as part of his Gabelli Presidential Scholarship at Boston College.
A very special “Happy Anniversary” to my sweetheart!
Vagenende opened in 1904 and the Belle Epoque interior is something special!
We LOVE their profiteroles!
Marla and our Paxton…the boulevardier.
I’ve been wanting to have dinner in a traditional “bouillon” for quite a while. Philippe joined us at “Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse”. We hadn’t seen him since he visited Denver in the fall when Marla was in the hospital so we had lots to catch up. The concept of the “Bouillon” began in Paris in the 19th century with the idea of serving a decent low-price meal to working-class locals. In the last few years, they have become very popular again for all people, even for my good Michelin-starred friend above! The prices are best value in Paris and if you don’t show up early (they are open from lunch till late at night) you’ll have to cue up on the sidewalk!
I have been fascinated by Art Nouveau design and interiors forever and this place doesn’t disappoint!
A waiter brings plates of tasty treats to hungry patrons.
Next week I’ll post on the beautiful Dior Gallery exhibit and the Musee D’Orsay.
Photos: Dick Gentry. Not to be used without permission. Photo 2 & 3 courtesy of the Hotel de Buci.
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